My first taste of Charleston occurred more than a decade ago, when I relocated there to write about the local cuisine. I had never been to the city before, and documenting the turbulent restaurant scene of such a vibrant, historic city without prior firsthand knowledge or hands-on tasting experience seemed daunting.
However, my lack of familiarity with the city turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Simply put: I ate like a tourist. I visited all of the prize winners, followed my coworkers’ recommendations, and listened to advice from connections in the food and restaurant industry. I said “yes” to everything, and that approach served as a crash course in Lowcountry cuisine. In a year, I studied the ins and outs, the overrated and underestimated, the best and worst of nearly everything. I became a Charleston foodie and got compensated for it.
Before moving there, all I knew about Charleston’s food was “seafood,” And with good reason: the seafood scene is the best. However, when providing my recommendations, I tried to include a diverse range of styles and cuisines. There’s plenty of seafood (the ocean is literally right there!), but there’s also less fishy options, ranging from polished (Wagyu Beef Tartare at a James Beard Award-winning restaurant) to clearly and purposely unrefined (a basket of corndogs at a Johns Island hole). There’s also some of the finest barbecue you’ll ever taste and more hangover-inducing beverages than you can imagine.
Begin the day with a Lowcountry breakfast.
People come to Charleston for shrimp and grits. It’s the city’s most well-known dish, and Millers All Day does it best. Millers pairs their ultra-fresh shrimp and corn grits with Tasso ham, local mushrooms, and toasted bene seeds. It has two locations: one on King Street in the heart of everything, and another on James Island. There is also a wandering food truck, but I recommend taking a seat at one of the brick-and-mortar establishments and enjoying some air conditioning before venturing out to explore the muggy city.
If you’re staying outside of Charleston, Page’s Okra Grill in Summerville is a great breakfast choice. It’s better known for its omelets than its grits, with standouts like Crab Cake Eggs Benedict and an incredible Meat Lover’s Omelet.
If you’re going to the beach early and want to beat the crowds, grab breakfast at the Lost Dog Cafe on Folly Beach. Its menu is a tad lighter: try the Original Breakfast Burrito, or simply grab one of its delicious freshly baked muffins. Simply wait 30 minutes before hitting the waters.
Enjoy some comfort cuisine classics for lunch.
Southern cuisine is all about comforting classics, and lunch in Charleston is no exception. There are plenty delectable selections, but my favorite is the buffet at Fleet Landing Restaurant and Bar. It is located in the City Market, in the heart of Charleston’s historic downtown. You will need to make a reservation, so call ahead, but the raw bar at Fleet Landing is well worth the phone worry. I prefer the fresher-than-fresh Chilled Blue Crab, but if you want more variety, go for the Seafood Tower and feast on oysters, lobster tail, and other Atlantic treasures all at once.
If you’re outside of the city, you can visit The Obstinate Daughter on Sullivan’s Island. Its menu features sophisticated comfort food, but the Peel n’ Eat Shrimp is a must-try.
If you’ve had your fill of seafood, head to one of the top barbecue spots in the south: Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog BBQ on King Street. Anthony Bourdain adored it, and it is simple to understand why. Everything is delicious, but for a true taste of South Carolina, choose the Carolina Style Pork Sandwich. It’s Rodney Scott at his finest.
Treat yourself to a midday snack.
If you need an afternoon pick-me-up, go to Queen Street Grocery. It’s a combination of a corner store and a café, and it’s just great. For a filling meal, try one of its Hot Pressed Sammies (my personal favorite is the Egypt 80 with turkey, goat cheese, and coconut curry sauce), or choose for a wonderful salad. If you’re thirsty, and you will be, this grocery shop provides a great assortment of local artisan brews.
Waflin on North Market Street is another excellent choice, particularly if you have a sweet craving. It’s mostly a chocolate shop, but the true draw is the ice cream. There are both traditional and robust taste combinations available, and it may be served piled high in a cup, making it ideal for wandering around.
Back on King Street, there’s Weltons Tiny Bakeshop. A true neighborhood bakery, you’ll discover a variety of breads, cookies, cakes, and pies. There are various sandwich alternatives, but I’d go with one (or two) of the Lemon Cloud Cookies. They’re well-known in the area and large enough to keep you satisfied until dinnertime.
Enjoy a supper of southern classics.
Husk has always been and will continue to be my favorite restaurant in Charleston, whether or not James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock is there. Executive Chef Ray Englund has done an outstanding job maintaining the standards high and the flavors classic. There are rigorous guidelines about the ingredients used in the recipes, so you know everything will be fresh and local. Choose whatever you like from the extensive dinner menu, but make sure to order a side of collard greens. They’re the pinnacle of traditional Southern cookery, yet they’re the cheapest item on the menu.
If you want to max up your credit card, visit Raw Lab by Empire Oyster. It is the most expensive restaurant in South Carolina, but not for long: it will close on New Year’s Eve this year. If you want to try this four-hour, omakase-style raw bar experiment, you’ll need to move quickly. There are only twelve seats every session, organized around a U-shaped “ice moat,” and each visitor is served ten courses of some of the world’s freshest seafood, as well as wine pairings. If it is your thing, you will certainly get your money’s worth.
I couldn’t write about supper in Charleston without mentioning FIG. The abbreviation stands for “Food is Good,” and that’s certainly true here: The menu features elevated Lowcountry classics such as Bouillabaisse and Blue Crab Ravioli, but the real reason to go is the wine list, which won the James Beard Award for Best Wine Program in 2018.
Have a lively night on the town
Charleston has plenty of terrific late-night beverage options, with pubs ranging from divey to touristy to ultra-chic. Prohibition on King Street, the city’s main drag, combines all of the above. There is always live music, so it may become a little boisterous, but in a good-natured, very Southern way. They offer extensive collections of bourbon and scotch, as well as some exceptionally powerful Irish whiskey. The cocktails are carefully made and lean towards citrus flavors. Try the Jackalope cocktail, which includes Irish gin and grapefruit rose mist.
For a more nightclub-like atmosphere, head to the East Bay and drink the night away at The Peacock. They promote “Three Levels of Dining, Entertainment, and Cocktails,” and that is precisely what they provide. I propose getting a cocktail (I like The Gold Rush with Old Forrester Bourbon and hot honey), going up to the rooftop deck, and enjoying the city lights and bay sounds.
Another excellent option is The Griffin, an unashamed dive bar with the best beer selection in Charleston. Try the “Lefty Loosey” from Charleston’s Revelry Brewing Co.
Make room for a midnight snack.
It’s time to soak up all that alcohol with some late-night supper. Fortunately, there are many of fantastic establishments that stay open till the wee hours. If you need a nibble for the midnight munchies, come to the Tattooed Moose on Park Circle for some classic American drunk food. Garlic fries, huge wings, and big, sloppy subs are among the menu items that satisfy cravings. The Tattooed Moose also has a location on Johns Island, so if you arrive on time, you can watch the sunrise on the beach while enjoying an order of their amazing Duck Fat Fries.
The Rarebit, located back on King Street, is also worth noting. It’s a laid-back little restaurant serving Charleston favorites like pork chops and chicken and waffles. It’s only open until 1 a.m. on weekends, so you may have to cut your celebration short if you want to get there before closing time.
Container Bar is more of a cluster of food trucks arranged around a central one. It’s made of a strange architectural combination of shipping containers, an old body shop, and a parking lot. There are generally at least five different food trucks on the premises, so there’s always plenty to choose from. It’s not precisely conventional, but it’s uniquely Charleston.
Wake up to a drunken brunch.
If you enjoy cocktails for brunch, I’ve got the location for you. Finish your 24-hour stay in Charleston with a breakfast that will leave you wanting more until your next visit to the Lowcountry. Poogan’s Porch is as Charleston as they come, with historic Holy City architecture painted in a welcoming brilliant yellow. The cocktails are also classic (mimosas and Bloody Marys), and the cuisine on the menu follows suit. But that’s okay; everything is well. Feast on Southern staples such as fried green tomatoes and hushpuppies, and don’t miss the incredible red velvet pancakes.
If you want to make your final meal in Charleston a little more adventurous, go to Meeting Street and enjoy breakfast by the pool at Little Palm. The cuisine is a little more refined, with shrimp tostadas and beet and strawberry endive cups on the menu, but traditional dishes are also available. Be sure to try one of the distinctive spritzes.
If you’re in a hurry to leave town, stop into The Junction Kitchen in Park Circle for something quick, easy, and excellent. The menu is simple, featuring doughnuts, biscuits and gravy, and the familiar shrimp and grits, but the cuisine is consistently outstanding. In fact, the Buzzed Doughnut with coffee-rubbed bacon is so delicious that you’ll want to cancel your flight and stay a bit longer. In Charleston, you are always welcome.
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