Gee Smalls has built a career around creating spaces of inclusion, celebration, and love. A Charleston native and longtime Atlanta resident, Smalls is not only a seasoned chef and restaurateur but also a passionate entrepreneur dedicated to honoring his Gullah Geechee roots. His journey from the IT world to opening Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen and Bar in 2019 represents his deep commitment to preserving culture while creating a space for fellowship, especially for the Black LGBTQ+ community.
A Restaurant Inspired by Gullah Geechee Culture
The opening of Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen and Bar was a significant milestone for Smalls and his partner of 17 years, Juan. The restaurant aimed to fill a gap in Atlanta’s food scene—offering a dining experience rooted in Gullah Geechee traditions while fostering inclusivity and community. “We never had a place to go that was a Black LGBT-owned spot,” Smalls shares, reflecting on the lack of spaces where he and his community could feel truly accepted. Through his restaurant, he sought to create that sense of home, acceptance, and love.
Growing up in Charleston as part of the Gullah Geechee community, Smalls wasn’t initially aware of the full depth of his culture. It wasn’t until he opened the restaurant that he fully immersed himself in Gullah Geechee traditions, especially in the culinary aspects. Smalls distinguishes Gullah Geechee cuisine from broader Southern and soul food traditions, infusing each dish with an authentic cultural identity.
Bringing Gullah Geechee Cuisine to Atlanta
Smalls’ menu at Virgil’s is a testament to his personal history and cultural identity, with dishes such as shrimp and grits prepared with a seafood stock and brown gravy, okra gumbo with oysters, shrimp, crab, and Roger Wood sausage, and fried green matis—a cornmeal-dusted green tomato dish served with corn salsa and his signature hot to trot sauce. These dishes don’t just represent food for Smalls; they are an expression of love and culture.
“We like to make people feel like they’re coming into our home,” he says. And that feeling of warmth, acceptance, and love is what keeps customers coming back, even during tough times.
Overcoming Challenges: Scaling Through the Pandemic
Opening a restaurant is never easy, and Smalls faced his fair share of challenges—none more significant than the global pandemic. In March 2020, less than a year after the restaurant opened, the world was thrust into uncertainty. Smalls admits to feeling both panicked and relieved. The pandemic pushed him to adapt quickly, moving from dine-in services to mastering to-go orders. “To-go is a completely different beast,” he shares, noting how this shift helped sustain the restaurant during the challenging period.
Smalls credits his customers, particularly his Black LGBTQ+ community, for helping to keep the restaurant afloat. Through catering orders and community support, Virgil’s was able to survive and even thrive. This period of adaptation ultimately led to national recognition, with Smalls being featured on prominent platforms like Good Morning America, The Kelly Clarkson Show, and the Atlanta-based Portia.
Expanding the Brand
Since the success of Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen and Bar, Smalls has expanded his brand. He and his husband, Juan, opened two more locations of Virgil’s, in Conyers and College Park, and launched The Breakfast Boys, a boozy all-day breakfast and brunch diner in partnership with restaurateur and friend Lorenzo Wyche.
Beyond the Plate: Mentorship and Creative Ventures
Even with the demands of running multiple restaurants, Smalls continues to explore creative outlets. He is also deeply involved in mentoring his 24-year-old son, Lil Gee, who manages events for the restaurants while pursuing his entrepreneurial ventures. Smalls’ memoir, Black Enough, Man Enough: Embracing My Mixed Race and Sexual Fluidity, was released in 2020 and has since expanded into a teen edition and audiobook. The book chronicles his journey as a biracial, sexually fluid man growing up in South Carolina.
Smalls and Juan are also working on a seven-part podcast that tells the story of their love journey, along with plans to revive The Gentlemen’s Ball, an annual fundraising gala Smalls co-founded in 2011 to honor Black LGBTQ+ men making a difference in Atlanta.
Reflecting on His Journey
Smalls reflects on his journey with a sense of pride and freedom, saying, “What I’ve enjoyed most about my journey is my freedom. The level of freedom I have with my time, with the things I want to do and partake, and my energy.” His continued success is a reflection of his commitment to community, culture, and the love he pours into every aspect of his life and business.
Learn More About Gee Smalls
For more about Gee Smalls, his journey, and his restaurants, visit his website. To stay updated on his projects and ventures, follow Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen and The Breakfast Boys on Instagram.
